Pui Shan Chu(Amy Chu) (She/Her)

In her book, The Mushroom at the End of the World: On the Possibility of Life in Capitalist Ruins (2015), the writer, Anna Tsing, describes how mushrooms represent a form of ‘collaborative survival within multispecies landscapes’, their fungal ecologies provide a model of species cohabitation. Isolated from other human beings during the pandemic, these humble vegetables are reminders of our inherent need for contact and interconnection with others, human and ‘more-than-human’ species.
Series

2020 was a strange year. Normal daily life, social interaction with friends, strangers and being able to go out whenever we wish, were all on hold. During this period, a lack of interaction and engagement highlighted the possibilities of kinetic engagement in the design of these jewellery pieces. Their purpose is to encourage physical and visual engagement between the wearer and the piece.
The collection begins with three brooches, each containing different aspects of engagement between the wearer, viewer, and the piece. This includes visual engagement, which occurs when the viewers see the object, much like looking at a collection in a museum, behind glass. The other type of engagement responds to the wearer’s movement, the wearer determines the movement of the piece with his/her own movement. The brooches replicate the forms and patterns that characterise mushrooms; circles with lines filled in (the mushroom’s gills) or repeated dots which cover the surface (the mushroom’s pores).
The Cobbler, Arrochar
Every Autumn is mushroom season, and during my last trip to Argyll Forest Park, I could not help but notice the different types of fungi blooming through a collage of fallen leaves. It gave me a similar sense of excitement to an Easter egg hunt, as it is difficult to predict where the mushrooms might emerge or be hiding.
My relationship with mushrooms began during early childhood in China. I would go into the mountains with my family in the early hours of the morning to pick wild mushrooms. Once we had returned home, my grandmother would separate the mushrooms and teach me how to differentiate between the various types. Despite her efforts, I was never able to tell them apart in the dark! However, I vividly remember there was a mushroom (lurid bolete) that would bruise upon a gentle touch. I was fascinated by it, running my finger across every other mushroom I saw to test if the colour changed in a similar way. These experiences acted as the catalyst in using mushroom as the medium in my work and incorporating kinetic movement within.
Edible Jewellery? Culinary mushroom brooch
Inspired by Celina Grams’ series of edible jewellery, I decided to experiment with some of the dried pasta and noodle sitting in my cupboard. The finer dried noodle was much easier to shape and dried beautifully compared to spaghetti and lasagne.
And here I present you with my spinach and mushroom brooch, garnished with a copper hoop and served with bronze casted mushrooms on the side.
Design Development

Kinetic Engagement Collection I
Introducing the first and the most complex collection out of the three – the mushroom pores collection. As the name suggests, this collection took inspiration from the pores of a mushroom (for example the porcini mushroom) and enhanced it with kinetic elements.
Collection I – Mushroom Pores brooch
Material: Sterling silver, oxidised silver, stainless steel wire
Dimension: 5.5cm x 5.5cm x 2 cm

Mushroom Pores Brooch
Collection I – Mushroom Pores ring
Material: Sterling silver, oxidised silver
Dimension: 2.5 cm x 2 cm x 3.5 cm

Mushroom Pores Ring
Kinetic Engagement Collection II
My second collection focuses on the silhouette of the mushroom gill and uses silver spheres as dew drops to enhance the piece. The motion of the sphere sliding up and down mimics the droplets dripping off the mushroom adding playfulness to the pieces.
Collection II – Mushroom Gill brooch
Material: Sterling silver, oxidised silver, stainless steel wire
Dimension: 7 cm x 7 cm x 2 cm

Mushroom Gill brooch
Collection II – Mushroom Gill bangle
Material: Sterling silver, oxidised silver
Dimension: 10 cm x 10 cm x 3 cm
Inside diameter: 58 cm

Mushroom Gill bangle
Kinetic Engagement Collection III
Last but not least, the third and final collection investigates the shape of the mushroom cap through an organic style. This collection stayed true to most features of a mushroom and used it to highlight the piece. In order to outline the shape of the mushroom cap, I have deliberately kept all the folded gills and most of the silver granules oxidised, leaving only the edge with a sliver of shine.
Collection III – Mushroom Cap brooch
Material: Sterling silver, oxidised silver, stainless steel wire
Dimension: 5 cm x 5 cm x 2 cm

Mushroom Cap brooch
Collection III – Mushroom Cap ear studs
Material: Sterling silver, oxidised silver
Dimension: 3 cm x 3 cm x 0.6 cm (Each)

Mushroom Cap ear studs
Collection Gallery

